![]() On these locks, the springs are stiffer and purchase is much more difficult. There are tools that enable potential attackers to manipulate the inside part of the lock from outside the door. The front part of the lock is reinforced and a lose disc fits over the key hole that stops the burglar being able to drill their way into the lock. ![]() It also loses the curved side of the latch so that the door cannot be attacked by a method known as ‘slipping’. To get a kite mark, they have to be pretty special They will have an automatic deadlocking feature which pushes the latch out further, effectively making it as strong as a bolt. Also, if the snib iis accidently activated upon leaving, the key will not work when you return. This action makes using the inner lever or knob useless, so you can effectively be locked in and the door will only open when some one unlocks from the outside. But it is possible to double lock the door while it is open and then slam the door shut. Firstly, if you rotate the key an extra turn you ‘double lock’ the door, which is fine when you leave. The standard versions of these locks also have two major flaws. If your nightlatch does not have a kite mark, most insurers will require you to have at least one other key operated lock on the door. These are the locks that have a cylinder that goes through the door from the front, operated by the key and a square or rectangular mechanism on the back of the door which usually has a lever or knob to pull the latch back, and a button or ‘snib’ which will lock the the latch in the extended or retracted position. Standard nightlatches are arguably the easiest lock to break into. Nightlatches (commonly referred to as ‘Yale’ type locks) The keeps (the bits that the latch and bolt go into) that sit in the door frame are also bigger and stronger, meaning that in most cases, when the door is forced, it is actually the integrity of the door and frame that fail before the lock. Some have roller bars inside so that a saw blade will only be able to cut so far before it can no longer get purchase to continue cutting. The bolts on these locks are longer and thicker than standard, with special materials to make sawing virtually impossible. Even with hardened drill bits and powerful drills, this is a noisy and time consuming method of attack, meaning most burglars would avoid attempting this. Standard drill bits will blunt before going through these hardened steel plates. The lock also has an anti-drill plate which is an extra layer of hardened metal that protects the lock from attack by power tools. In addition to this, the levers have pick traps, so that anyone managing to bypass the anti-pick curtain runs the risk of getting caught by these traps and therefore rendering the lock frozen in the locked position. However, to get the famous kite mark that comes with BS3621, the lock must have certain features:įirstly, an anti-pick curtain which prevents anyone manipulating the levers inside without the proper key. ![]() Only five lever versions are acceptable to insurers when used as a stand alone lock. ![]() You can get two, three and five lever versions. These are the locks that sit inside wooden doors with a long, cylindrical key that has a square drop down at the end, which turns levers inside the lock to operate. Mortice locks (commonly known as ‘Chubb’ locks) Here is a breakdown of what the three main types of lock do when they are rated to British Standard (BS3621). Insurance standards do not always require that your locks be rated to British Standard kite marked (always best to check your paperwork though!) so why should we fit locks to this higher level? ![]()
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